Tutorial: Natural-Looking Colored Winged Eyes with Zulema Ramirez
Zulema is a makeup artist in Guadalajara, Mexico. After an injury prevented her following a path as a professional track and field athlete, Zulema pursued her other love: makeup. Now, 10 years into her career, she works across editorial, social and bridal makeup, as well as teaching at her studio in Guadalajara.
In this tutorial, Zulema teaches us a natural look with a fun twist: colored winged eyes. Winged eyeliner can be especially flattering when colored, as it opens up the eyes as well as fitting your mood, outfit, and occasion. It's perfect for when you want to take your daytime makeup up a level and when need a look that transitions from day to night.
"This is a look that I love; it's a way to use color, but in a very natural way."
To follow the video (in Spanish), please see the end of the post or Zulema's IGTV.
- Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer
- Laura Mercier Translucent Powder
- Jeffree Star Cosmetics Orgy Eyeshadow Palette
- Bissu Eyeliner Pencil (Blue)
- Morphe 35XO Natural Flirt Palette
1. Apply your base and primer
After applying your base face makeup, apply primer evenly across your eyelid and blend so there's no excess or lumpy product.
Tip: To open up the eyes a little more and make them pop that extra, apply two individual eyelashes (or to your own preference) to the outer edge of the upper eyelids before applying primer.
Use the Chikuhodo Takumi T-6 with your translucent powder to seal the primer on the eyelid with your brush (this will remove the sticky feeling, and allow you to blend eyeshadows easier).
On the Chikuhodo Takumi T-6:
"I love the size of this brush, it's really multifunctional... for eyes, for face, where I find big brushes aren't as flexible in use."
2. Softly define your crease
With a fluffy eyeshadow blending brush (such as the Chikuhodo Z-10), apply a gray eyeshadow to the crease of your eye sockets. Run your brush in a half-moon movement, then finish by pulling the line up and out to have the effect of opening and lifting the eye.
Tip: Remove excess product by tapping the brush then swiping it across your hand before applying to the eye socket, as you just want an accent of color and not to compete with the colored wing.
3. Apply the eyeliner
With your colored pencil, apply eyeliner to the outer third part of your eyelids. Using a pointed eyeshadow brush (such as the Koyudo Yoshiki Y-8), blending the liner to give a hint of smokiness, pulling the line out and up to forming a little wing and opening up the eye. Build the eyeliner from less to more, until your reach your desired intensity.
Tip: Use a waterproof pencil as it dries instantly and holds more firmly, but if you're not using a waterproof pencil, you can seal it with an eyeshadow.
"I love the size and the pointed shape of this Yoshiki brush for this task, but you can use any brush that has a pencil shape."
Take your fluffy blending brush (such as the Chikuhodo Z-10), without any product, and use it to blend and integrate the eyeshadow and pencil eyeliner.
5. Apply inner-eye highlights
Apply dots of a light shimmer gray to the inner corners of your eyes, blending the shadow up slightly into the eyelid to illuminate the eyes. Leave the central part of the eyelid without makeup to allow the focus to be on the eyeliner.
6. Add a little extra drama (optional)
Using a medium-sized flat eyeshadow brush (such as the Chikuhodo Takumi T-7), add a touch of a darker shade of gray to emphasize the line and depth of the eye socket.
7. Blend and buff
Using your fluffy eyeshadow blending brush, blend and buff the products together. If your eyeliner loses a bit of intensity, you can boost it by applying a little more eyeliner in the same way as before, stretching it out again with the pointed eyeshadow brush.
8. Finish with a neutral lip
Apply a nude shade of lipstick and then use a large, soft pointed brush (such as the Yoshiki Y-7) to soften the edges. This will give the effect of bigger natural lips (you can also do this with a pencil liner).
If you have any questions about this look, please get in touch with Zulema on her Instagram @zulemakeup.