How to Create Your Own Geisha and Maiko Makeup

Geisha “芸者” also known as Geiko “芸妓”, while often misunderstood, embody a very traditional side of Japanese culture. Here’s 3 quick facts you may or may not know about geisha:.

Geisha are essentially entertainers and master of many arts, not prostitutes.
Becoming a geisha requires years of training and diligence.
Geisha are not everywhere in Japan and their numbers are dwindling.

To preserve the art form, it is necessary to talk about their lives with respect to the authenticity of it all. Even so, there are ways in which this geisha makeup and style are molding into the contemporary.

From my first encounter with geisha and its culture, I will introduce you to a brief history with an explanation of geisha and Maiko makeup.

History & Theory behind Geisha and Maiko Makeup

The white face makeup customary to geisha and maiko originated in China, used because, in the dim candlelight, wearing thick white makeup created a porcelain look. The mouth looked like lacquer ware—something loved and praised by the Japanese. The whitening effects of whitening powder are still proliferated to this day in modern makeup.

What is Maiko “舞妓”, and how is it different than Geisha?

Traditionally, a trainee geisha is known as a Maiko, an apprentice to geisha. Maiko begin training at the ages of fourteen to sixteen through to their early 20’s in order to become skilled in music, dance, conversation, mannerisms, and even the methods of applying their own makeup. This training stage is very hard, and about only half of Maiko succeed in becoming geisha.

Maiko Makeup and Dress

There are two distinguishing features of a Maiko’s makeup and hair when compared with a geisha:

Lip: Only the bottom lip of a maiko is painted red (A senior maiko will have half of their upper lip painted red)
Hana Kanzashi (Hair ornaments with a flower for the first-year Maiko): hair ornaments are more elaborate and the hair is natural compared to geisha, who would wear wigs. Maiko uses their natural hair for their styles.
Back of the neck only half covered in white. If you look closer at the back of their neck, the line that separate white makeup is W-shaped for Maiko and V-shaped for geisha.

Geisha “芸者” Makeup and dress

One notable beautiful aspect about Geisha makeup is its use of natural materials and that most of their makeup items are handmade, and of good quality. There was no commercially available cosmetic kit in Edo period, so women had to use what was in their kitchen or gardens to create their makeup themselves to emphasize their beauty. The most common ingredients include soy, rice, rice bran, camellia oil, and even charcoal, among many others.

Oil as Primer

The application begins with Bintsuke Abura or Kabuki Abura, a special kind of traditional oil made from soy. It is the same oil that Sumo wrestlers use for their hair. The purpose of this delightful oil is to create a barrier between the skin and the harsh makeup, as well as to lock in moisture to not overdry the skin when it is time for removal. Tsai, the creator of Tatcha, an American makeup brand that’s inspired by geisha makeup, says that “Geisha never strip their skin [of moisture] with bubbles and alcohol so they never have to feed the moisture back in”.

Shironuri: White Foundation/Powder

Next step is to mix water and Oshiroi, white makeup powder. Historically, white lead was used for this powder, which caused lead poisoning. Using a flat type makeup brush called Hake, you cover up the whole face and neck. The hairline is not painted to make the makeup look like a mask. Excess water is removed with a sponge.

Red Lips and Eyeliner

The beautiful red lips and eyes of geisha and maiko makeup are made from Beni “紅” which is an extract of the Japanese Safflower. It is also called “Kyoto Red” and the mix contains crystallized sugar. This paint for the eyes and lips first comes in a liquid form and as a cute decor note, the geisha will occasionally put the dried paste into a seashell so that it will cover the inside of the shell to hide the makeup. It makes a beautiful ornament on a makeup table.

Charcoal: Eyes and Eyeliner makeup

Eyebrows and eyes are drawn with charcoal.

Note: Teeth Staining (Ohaguro)

Teeth staining at one time used to be popular using oxidized iron in a solution. There were many purposes for this including protecting the teeth from dental issues, to create an illusion of a wider smile, to avoid having the teeth looking yellow in contrast to the white face makeup, and it was simply a trend until the end of the 19th century.

Geisha sometimes don’t wear makeup. When a maiko transitions to a geisha she wears less makeup because it is believed that she has matured enough for her natural beauty to be seen. The makeup is meant to act like a mask to protect the allure, and possibly, the innocence of the maiko. Once a geisha matures, she will not wear much makeup during the daytime, and only revert to the full white face when she is going to traditional ceremonial or other important events at night.

Makeup Brushes of Japanese Geisha

For reference and incase you were interested, below are the some of the more traditionally-shaped makeup brushes made in Kumano, Hiroshima.

Chikuhodo HA-1 HANAKO Brush, $51

Hake-style makeup brush. While not the exact same model as the brush used by geisha makeup, the flat bristle shape is the same type.

The Hanako brush is a portable but functional powder brush. Ideal for contouring and defining cheeks for flawlessly blended natural results. It comes with a leather pouch.

Koyudo H009 Kabuki Buffer Brush, H Brush Series Pink, $117

While it is being called “Kabuki” brush, it is not used by Kabuki actors, but it got its name through the resemblance of the Kabuki bristle shape.

kabuki brush

There is so much more to learn about Japanese Geisha and the way they spend time creating this figure of beauty and grace. They are true performers and the makeup is only one part of their act. Geisha are an enigma of the highest caliber. If you’re tempted to recreate their striking makeup their these are the brushes we suggest.

Written By Ana Vigueras